.50 Beowulf Muzzle Brake Options [Archive]

Lars

11-22-2005, 21:39

I have gotten a lot of questions concerning the muzzle breke for the Beowulf. I have to say, Initially I wanted one on my personal Beowulf, but then decided against it.

I talked to an associate who talked to Bill Alexander and he was told that the AA muzzle brake was more or less designed for protecting the crown of the barrel during entry situations, and not as much for recoil or flash supression. This is hearsay, and if we can get Bill on here, maybe he will comment.

I have seen a few options popping up on the market. I must say, i do like what I see and am excited that there are accessories out there. Tromix makes some interesting options and offers threading services for $35+$45.

This is the Muzzle Brake currently offered by AA. $70
http://www.50beowulf.com/images/products/42s.jpg

This is a Flash Hider by Tromix $40 Parked Steel
http://www.50beowulf.com/images/products/flash-hider.jpg

This is a Muzzle Brake by Tromix $85 Matte Stainless Steel
http://www.50beowulf.com/images/products/muzzle-break.jpg

This is the Omni 50 Brake from KKH
http://www.50beowulf.com/images/products/Omni50.jpg

I will post others as i find them...

Erud

11-23-2005, 09:36

I had my local gunsmith install a brake on mine after the first trip to the range. First time out(before brake) I put 30 rounds through it while sighting in and ended up with a black and blue shoulder and bloody elbow from shooting off the bench. Fun, but a little more painful than I like. I dropped it off at the 'smith and he threaded the barrel and installed the brake(his own design - he mills them in his shop) and now this is a #####cat to shoot. I would estimate 30-40% reduction in felt recoil - to me it now feel similar to a .308. Next trip to the range I sent 40 rounds + another 40 of .308 and was no worse for wear. I definitely recommend a brake of some sort - it took this gun from painful to pleasant. only downside is it's outrageously loud - it definitely gets people's attention on the range!

Erud

http://www.50beowulf.com/gallery/images/Erud/IMG_1200.jpg

eklikewhoa

11-23-2005, 09:44

i did notice a slight difference with the AA brake.

i bought my 'wulf bare muzzle for a great price and then ordered the brake as soon as the price dropped on them, installed it myself. this is after i had put about 300rds through my wulf already so i felt the difference when shooting it with the brake.

i would say it was about a 20-25% reduction in felt recoil but this was felt after installing but with the mgi rrb already in there.

that said the mgi rate/recoil reducing buffer is a must have in my opinion for the wulf. helps recoil, cycling rate and muzzle rise.

Lars

11-23-2005, 10:15

I had my local gunsmith install a brake on mine after the first trip to the range.
Erud

Erud,

what kind of brake are you talking about? was it a AA brake or did you have it threaded for one of the Tromix brakes?

I would love to see a comparison of all of the brake types and the effects they have.

I might have to think about getting one if it really does tame the recoil.

I really wish that we could get a .50 Smith Vortex for it.

Erud

11-23-2005, 16:06

It is a brake of his own design, though it is similar to the Tromix(holes all around). He makes them to order in his own shop. I believe mine was the first one he had made for a Beowulf - turned out great. I could snap a pic if you like, though I have no idea how to attach it on this board...

Erud

EvoMcubed

11-24-2005, 00:49

eklikewhoa

11-25-2005, 17:00

Hey guys, thanks for the info so far. I think I'm going to order an AA muzzle brake in the near future as well as an MGI rate reducing buffer. Who is a good source to get the buffer from and what exactly do I need to do this(is there anything else I need to change when doing this?)? Right now I have a full length ACE stock on it.

http://ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=125&t=259550

twl is a great guy to deal with and he has offered great things to a lot of the 'wulf guys over at ar15.com. when ordering make sure you get the spacer for the rifle length stocks since it is not usually included. with the buffer you get a free d-fender which helps extraction a great deal.

rost495

11-26-2005, 20:29

Curious how the Dfender helps extraction a bunch. Take this with a grain of salt, but really wanting a reply. We've used both with and without an extra o ring and in reality, the quality of the extractor itself is the key issue.

Jeff

Snpr1

11-29-2005, 15:37

I have the Tromix on mine and it really makes shooting enjoyable. Tony did a great job with quick turnaround time on the threading and it just looks BAD.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b137/snpr1/wulf9b.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b137/snpr1/wulf13b.jpg

Lars

11-29-2005, 15:40

Snpr1

11-29-2005, 15:44

I have the Tromix on mine and it really makes shooting enjoyable. Tony did a great job with quick turnaround time on the threading and it just looks BAD.

Does Tony do them in Parkerized or Finished to better match the barrel finish?

Tony gave me the choice of matte stainless or parkerized steel. I thought the matte looked cool. :bounce:

Curlymaple42

12-18-2005, 17:41

I am wondering if Tromix will do a thread protector for when you are hunting? I like to have the barrel length 16" when hunting, but would like the muzzle brake the rest of the time for comfort and when length does not matter so much.

FinnWulf50

12-19-2005, 04:09

I have been playing with CAD software lately and tried different brake/compensator designs for Beowulf.

Any ideas, would this kind of brake/compensator work in Wulf?

Bullet hole diameter in brake is 14mm (.55") and OD of brake is 30mm (1.18"). Total lenght is 61mm (2.4")

Weight of the brake, if it's made of steel, is about 145 grams.

http://www.hunt101.com/img/355896.JPG

Curlymaple42

12-19-2005, 08:10

It looks similar in design to the 500S&W revolver brake. I'll let you know how that one works saturday or soon there-after. The 4" barrelled version came with two muzzle brakes, one a little longer. Four ports on short one, six ports on long one. Curious to see the difference. Advised NOT to stand next to the shooter on that puppy!!

I like the Tromix brake in terms of aesthetics, but it seems that one you designed might be a little better performance wise. One of the good things is that there are no ports on the bottom, or not as much porting anyways. This would be good for not kicking up dirt when shooting prone. Now there is a factor to design into it, make it so the thing doesn't kick up 4# of dirt when shooting prone!

FinnWulf50

12-19-2005, 09:01

I increased OD to 40mm and lifted gas port "floor" 2mm to minimize gas flow downwards.
These modifications to model increased mass of brake so that now it weights 284 grams. :shock:

http://www.hunt101.com/img/355918.jpg

If I remember correctly .500 S&W operates on higher pressure levels than Beowulf so this design may not work as well on Beo but that remains to be seen.

I will make one brake when my schedules allow, most likely in January '06.

I'm planning to use 3/4"-28 thread to fasten brake to barrel.

Timing of brake can be done with shim plates or then I'll just have to do it right from beginning.
(thread the brake first and mill the pockets to correct places)

Anyway design is far from finalized so I'll keep playing with CAD.

Lars

12-19-2005, 10:57

Great drawings. You using SketchUp?

I have that program, as well as AutoCAD. I think I might have to think up a design.

I like your Muzzle Break Finn!!!

FinnWulf50

12-19-2005, 14:54

Great drawings. You using SketchUp?

I have that program, as well as AutoCAD. I think I might have to think up a design.

I like your Muzzle Break Finn!!!

Thank you Lars!

Those muzzlebrake designs (yep, I have some others under development) are something that I have been thinking for a while.

Now when I finally have a good platform to test them, it's time to realize those plans.

Nowadays I'm using 3D Cad software called Catia V5 from Dassault Systems. Earlier I used SDRC's Ideas Master Modeller. Both softwares mentioned are tools that I use in work but sometimes I use them also to hobby projects. 8)

Lars

12-19-2005, 15:35

Finn,

My profession is as an Architect. So, I use the software every day also. I use Autodesk AutoCAD for work. I also use a cool program that is simple to use called SketchUP. You can download a trial version at the website www.sketchup.com. I think you will find the product interesting.

The drawings done with AutoCAD can be loaded into a CNC machine.

My biggest question is: What should the threading be on the barrel? Is there a standard? I assume you couldn't use 1/2 x 28? I might be wrong?

FinnWulf50

12-19-2005, 16:45

I'll check that software someday for sure. I like to test new design tools/softwares now and then.

I earn my living doing mechanics design work to a company that operates on telecommunication business.

I have used AutoCAD long time ago when Release 10 was just introduced.

Bill Alexander recommended thread sizes 3/4"-28 or 49/64-20 over there: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=121&t=259495

I will follow that recommendation even that those thread sizes are not very common in Europe.

Diameter of thread 1/2"-28 is too small for Beowulf barrel as bullet diameter is already 1/2".

In future I would like to see a Beowulf with 16" bull barrel as it would leave more options for threading. OD 23mm all the way under gas block to the muzzle would also look cool.

Lars

12-19-2005, 21:45

wow..

great thread. I didnt know Tony and Bill got along so well?

I need a lathe!!!

Curlymaple42

12-19-2005, 22:27

Wow, good thread on ARFCOM, but just a tad of friction there don't you think? Damn good thing the .499L-W guy wasn't on there too. There would be some smoking computers from what I have gathered...

Lars

12-19-2005, 22:57

There would be some smoking computers from what I have gathered...

I just have to say, that Bill was a lot more professional than I think I would have been. I refrain to take any sides, but i have to admire anyone keeping there cool.

I would like to get Tony on this board. I hope he would consider it.

Lars

12-20-2005, 10:00

I wonder how this break would work, it doesnt look all that heavy.

http://www.50beowulf.com/gallery/images/brake50.jpg
.50 Cal. 1"-14 tpi 2" O.D.

Information from Ops Inc (http://www.opsinc.us/brake.php)
Why OPS INC muzzle brake is so efficient:
As the gases exit the muzzle they expand into a spherical pattern. The gases directly in front of the muzzle have an amplitude of approximately double that of the gases flowing 90 degrees to the side. The gases that strike the baffle are directed back to the front portion of the large ports. These gases decrease in amplitude after imparting some of their energy to the baffle. The gases that flow directly from the muzzle to the large ports have approximately the same energy level as the gases that have already struck the baffle. The two gases vector and the result of the combined flow is a direction almost 90 degrees to the axis of the rifle bore. This action eliminates a great deal of sound that would be directed back towards the shooter. The sound directly to the side of the muzzle brake ports is increased. In normal shooting activity an observer would not be in this area, so this increase is of no consequence.

Curlymaple42

12-20-2005, 12:21

That brake is not as "cool" looking as the hole pattern ones, but we're talking about effectiveness, so it looks decent to me. It is bordering on the design of the ones used on 50BMG rifles. All I want is one that takes some of the recoil away, is threaded, and I can get a thread protector for. Good brainstorming here for sure!!

FinnWulf50

12-23-2005, 09:45

I made some decorations to the Beowulf muzzlebrake model.

What do you guys think, how does it look? 8)

http://www.hunt101.com/img/357322.jpg

Bigger picture: http://www.hunt101.com/img/357322-big.jpg

http://www.hunt101.com/img/357320.jpg

Bigger picture: http://www.hunt101.com/img/357320-big.jpg

Thorfinn

12-23-2005, 10:42

Looks cool with the logo.

The meanest brake I've ever seen is the Serbu brake with "Have a Nice Day" stamped around the muzzle :twisted:

Pretorian

06-05-2006, 08:39

Here is an other finnish brake. I love to shoot with it. Very fast double shots and finally rifle sounds like .50 ;)

335 Rainier feels like 7,62x39...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v247/Pretorian_74/beojarru1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v247/Pretorian_74/beosocom2.jpg

seaduce

06-05-2006, 10:47

Can you tell me where I could get such a brake?

Pretorian

06-05-2006, 11:58

Our local gunsmith is making those brakes for different guns and calibers. His website is www.takepaja.fi. The page is in finnish (the link "suujarruja" is for muzzle brakes).

He is my Beowulf with Takepajas suppressor:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v247/Pretorian_74/Beo.jpg

Another view of the brake:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v247/Pretorian_74/beosocom3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v247/Pretorian_74/jarru2.jpg

Doc S

06-05-2006, 14:25

Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone has used a JP break?

It looks like it would work very well, but I don't have much experience with these...

Thanks and God Bless,
Doc S

lou400a

12-07-2006, 12:56

I've just ordered ss Holland's muzzle brake. Here's the link:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=6905&title=QUICK+DISCHARGE+BRAKE

use # 403-000-006, S/S 3/4"-28 Brake (stainless) or # 403-000-004, Blue 3/4"-28 Brake

will post pictures when done

s2324

12-07-2006, 22:25

Lou400a,
I saw you profile, where in South Florida are you located? I live in Parkland, near Boca Raton. Where do you shoot your 50 Beowulf? Let me know how your brake works, I was looking at doing something very simular. Whao is threading your barrel?

Thanks,
Scott E.
s2324

HOPSTER

12-15-2006, 16:45

I located a company that will make a custom TAT (Thread alignment tool) to thread the barrel. What diameter should I specify for the bore portion ?
Since the guide rod is steel I want a good fit without marring the rifling.
The thread size will be 3/4 x 28 tpi.
FYI the company will also make any size custom brake.

October_V

03-04-2007, 22:17

HOPSTER

03-04-2007, 22:52

I cannot see any safety issue by cutting those threads but I don't pretend to be an engineer. I had a long chat with Bill A. at the ShotShow and could kick myself for forgetting to ask him about this.

Things to consider: You are not increasing backpressure over the standard brake install.
- You are not taking much meat off the muzzle end and the pressures there are very low anyway compared to the chamber etc.

- If the threads were a good fit it would effectively be placing a reinforcement band around the area that has been threaded (the brake itself).
- Would an aggresively tight fit actually reduce the bore diameter at that location ? I don't know.

If the brake were soldered with 1100 degree solder it should "homogenize" the parts to produce the effect of having a reinforcement band there for sure. Downside is if you need to remove the brake -out comes the mapp torch again. And 1100 degrees, well, again that may not be good for the barrel.

"Seat of the pants" guess is that it would not be a safety issue threading and using a setscrew to keep the brake clocked. I would pass on the soldering.
There is a new company making barrels to 50B contour and endorsed by Bill A. You may want to ask them also about threading.
DC

infsqdldr

03-05-2007, 21:15

I have read that some believe that cutting threads into the muzzle of the Beowulf may not be a good idea.
Weakens it, say it's thin.
So what the general idea? Does anybody think this true. I am leaning towards having some threads cut and putting a A2 style on the end. Unless it's a bad idea, I just don't know for sure.

that is my belief. your removing material from a relatively thin barrel. you could also stress the muzzle area from the heat generated during the threading process. that sbr with factory threads looked to have the threads larger than the orig barrel dia. if i wanted a threaded barrel, id get one of those saterns and sell the old one. i could be wrong about this, i dropped out of my engineering classes. that barrel just seems so thin compared to my .223 and .308 bulls.

HOPSTER

03-25-2007, 03:53

Although the barrel may be "thin" compared to your other rifles, that is a relative term. It is pretty strong steel and I doubt cutting shallow threads at that location would do any harm worth considering. Compared to the strength of barrel steel, I don't think the gas pressures at that distance from the chamber are enough to compromise safety.
I don't fault your sense of caution here.
"leave the damm thing alone" is a good philosophy to live by if you want to be certain. As far as the amount of heat generated by threading - well I have to say that is nonsense. One would do threading the way it SHOULD be done, which doesn't generate much heat at all compared to what it would take to alter the temper of the steel.
The danger of threading as I mentioned, again this is my own opinion, is in creating an overly tight interface -enough to alter the inside diameter of the barrel or "choke" the muzzle end. And I would glue the brake on once it it timed, using the same Locktite as used for the original, or several setscrews in the event one needed to remove the brake later.